Colonial forge part 2

Before we begin, I realized a possible problem with the information given in the prior lesson. That error is the size of the forge bed I specified. I designed this forge for my use, and realized I tend to use a much larger forge deck than most hobbyist smiths may have room or need for. Also, this amount of clay makes the forge bed quite heavy.

Here is a rethought size for the colonial forge, however it does not use standard sized pieces, so some ability to cut lumber will be required to construct this version.

The total materials list for this smaller forge would include these parts:

2 side pieces of 2x6 18” long (3 feet total)
2 rails of 2x6 24” long (4 feet total)
3 support rails under the forge of 2x4 20” long (5 feet total)
4 legs of 2x4 (or 2x6) 30” to 32” long
4 angle braces

And here is a cutting diagram to utilize the material fairly efficiently:


Keep in mind that this version will use a lot less material, weight a great deal less and take up less space in the garage than the prior version, and if these are considerations for you, you may be better served by this smaller forge. The construction methods and process is the same with either version.

Now with that out of the way, let's get back to the tasks at hand.

The air inlet pipe will be put into place before the clay bed is put in, and there are two options here. The first is to drill a hole through the end rail for the pipe to pass through. The second is to pass the air inlet over the top of the rail and hold it in place with a pair of nails or a wooden mount made from scrap.

To drill the large hole that will be required to pass the inlet pipe through the sidewall you will need a power drill and a hole-saw large enough to allow your pipe to fit, or alternately a series of overlapping smaller holes to make a hole large enough. I leave this option to you to sort out, as the plans here are designed for the pass over design. Of course, this step could also be done before the entire box is assembled, making the process of drilling the hole or holes a great deal simpler.

The pass over style inlet is designed for simpler construction, and uses a few scraps of wood to brace the inlet pipe for best results. This also sets the outlet at a slight angle which is something to be aware of once you start laying in the clay. Any scraps of wood you may have left over from the box construction can be used to brace the pipe, and I would suggest you put a thinner strip of material over the top of the inlet pipe for additional strength and stability.

A couple of heavy nails driven into the bottom of the forge bed hold the pipe in place before the clay is put in, and you will want to hammer them over the pipe so the heads do not stick up out of the clay after the forge bed is complete.

Mix up your clay with a small bit of water to make it easier to shape, and lay it in in layers, letting each layer dry a few days. This will help to allow trapped water to escape and reduce cracking that happens in a thicker layer of clay. I generally lay each layer about 1 to 1 1/2” thick. The first layer will help to hold the inlet pipe in place, with each successive layer making it even more stable. Build up a bowl around the mouth of the inlet pipe, much like the bucket forge, and refer to the illustration here for assistance.

You will need to let this clay bed dry for about a week before it can be used, though I do know of cases of these forges being built and used the same day in historical records. I am fairly sure the pressing need at the time outweighed any cracking that the heat may have caused in the clay layer.

Once the bed is dry, you will be able to start a small fire in the forge bed to drive even more moisture out of the clay. For this, a quarter bag of common BBQ charcoal works quite well, but a pile of dry sticks from the lawn will do just as well. There is no need to drive air into this first fire, you are simply drying the forge at this time. Allow it to cool and “rest” overnight before it will be ready for everyday use, as this gives the moisture in the clay time to migrate and even out throughout the clay bed.

In our next installment, I will detail building a set of bellows to get some air into your forge, and discuss possible alternatives.