Mid March with late May temps... huh. While our region is warmer than normal, other spots on the globe are notably cooler, so stay warm if you are in one of those areas.
We have been getting some of our spring cleaning and maintenance done early, including repairs from storm damage. Shop time is not as extensive, and writing time right now is nearly non existent, but we have some new stuff in the works, and should have posts up in the next few weeks on building bellows with pictures. The backpacker's bellows are also nearing completion, and a full write up on those is in the works.
With the early warm weather, and shop cleaning well ahead of schedule, we should be able to start shooting DVDs and free lessons for youtube about a month sooner than previously thought.
Back to it here, keep the fires lit.
19 March 2012
28 February 2012
Random tips, part 1
It's been a while since the last update, and times have been busy. So far the winter has been fairly mild here, so that has been enjoyable if odd.
In discussions via IRC chat, a number of things I should have covered but seemed to have missed came to the fore, so this post is a collection of little tidbits about those random topics.
Anvils; The usual rule of thumb is 50 pounds of anvil per pound of hammer weight. Any less than this, some of the power of a blow will be lost to the anvil bouncing. You can easily violate this rule without much major concern, it's mostly a guide for the most efficient work. A more solid mount can make up for a lack of anvil mass, espeicailly in a sand loaded base.
Anvils tend to ring, and this will quickly lead to hearing loss. There are several methods to help deaden this ring; Wrapping loose chain around the base of the anvil can help. The more mass the chain has, the better. By leaving the chain semi-loose, the vibration of the anvil will be somewhat deadened by the chain. Another solution is to mount the anvil firmly, add a raised base to the stand, and bed the anvil feet in sand. A few inches of sand around the feet of the anvil will help absorb a fair amount of ring.
A set of angled mounts that will be detailed in a later article also helps by adding the mass of the base to the mass of the anvil, and helps to deaden the ring at the same time.
Definitely, in addition to wearing some kind of eye protection like shooting glasses, hearing protection is a must. Either shooting muffs (aka “cans”) or ear plugs. We prefer cans, as they are easy to take off and put on if someone stops by.
Anvils are often hard to come by for the hobbyist smith, and several options will be covered here with more in a much longer future article. The anvil is a collection of specialized shapes and tools to aid in the work most smiths will be performing. The conical horn for making rings and scrolls, as well as drawing points. Rounded and square shoulders are used to neck down stock, such as the tang on a wood chisel or knife blade. The hardie hole on the face of the anvil holds tools, and so on. The full use of all the sections and the subtlety of each will be fully covered in a later post. But the main use for an anvil is something to strike heated metal on top of, and a number of substitutes can be found or made to fill in in this role.
A solid block or plate of steel, 1” thick or more will work decently, as will a section of rail track or an I beam. Even a large, solid rock can be use (and has). In a pinch, for a field repair I have had to use such things as trailer balls, large hammers and a massive slab of granite sticking out of the ground as improvised anvils.
For purchasing, a good deal on a used anvil is usually about a dollar a pound (or 2 quid a kilo for our UK readers... some translation will be required for other areas). Any higher a price, look it over well and strike it listening for any odd buzzing sounds that would indicate internal cracks. Any lower price is probably worth grabbing.
Used anvils are often seriously overpriced, so buyer beware.
New, good quality anvils are not cheap. 4 to 6 dollars a pound are not uncommon. Unless you get one of the cheap chinese imports... The less expensive anvil usually goes for about $50-60 US, and is cast iron. Many of these have been found to have serious casting flaws, and many have auto body filler to make them pretty hidden under their paint. The more expensive cast steel anvil typically runs under $100 US, and is a workable anvil, if a bit light. These 55lb anvils are easy to transport however, and make a great starter anvil for someone who has to move their gear in and out of storage to work.
Older anvils are marked in hundred weights (abbreviated Cwt). Usually, you will find 3 numbers on the waist of an anvil, something like 115. The first number is hundred weights, each of which is 112 lbs. The second number is quarters of hundredth weights, and the last number is the remainder in pounds. So in our example, the hypothetical anvil would weigh 112+28+5= 145lbs total.
Often you can not easily see the markings on an older anvil will be obscured with paint or dirt. Try spraying water on the side and let it dry. Often, the stamped numbers will dry last, so the weight and make can be made out for a few minutes.
That about covers the little bits on anvils covered in chat recently, a more complete article is in the works for a later post. Including how to make micro anvils... just cause they are fun.
Other topics included aprons; some kind of leather apron is a helpful safety item, and will help to keep pants and shits from becoming as soiled and ripped (plus possibly burned). Oil tanned leathers work best, and cost less than vegetable tanned “tooling” leathers. Chrome tanned styles also work, and a weight of 5oz per square foot or heavier are suggested. A farriers (horse shoer's) apron is readily available, but is not required. A simple carpenters style apron is more than adequata, and a simple loop or thong of leather to tie it closed is quite functional. Aprons will be another thing covered in a later article, so stay tuned for that.
For improvised tongs; large channel locks or vice grips can be used, along with a good sized set of pliers. These are not nearly as specialized or as useful as a few good sets of tongs, but may work in a pinch or as starting tools. Generally I suggest against wearing gloves because it deadens vibration coming from the tongs. While at first this seems like a good thing, it actually prevents a lot of feedback from your work. A piece of hot stock slipping slowly free of your “tongs” will feel quite different than a solidly held piece. This warning I missed some years back, which lead to some wonderful excitement and several weeks of healing. You can wear gloves, and many professional smiths do.. the choice is yours, but try both versions and see which works best for you. It is worth noting that the longer, springier reins of a pair of tongs will transfer much less shock to your hands and arms than something like vice-grips.
I know there were dozens of other topics... but those will have to wait for another post.
Stay warm!
In discussions via IRC chat, a number of things I should have covered but seemed to have missed came to the fore, so this post is a collection of little tidbits about those random topics.
Anvils; The usual rule of thumb is 50 pounds of anvil per pound of hammer weight. Any less than this, some of the power of a blow will be lost to the anvil bouncing. You can easily violate this rule without much major concern, it's mostly a guide for the most efficient work. A more solid mount can make up for a lack of anvil mass, espeicailly in a sand loaded base.
Anvils tend to ring, and this will quickly lead to hearing loss. There are several methods to help deaden this ring; Wrapping loose chain around the base of the anvil can help. The more mass the chain has, the better. By leaving the chain semi-loose, the vibration of the anvil will be somewhat deadened by the chain. Another solution is to mount the anvil firmly, add a raised base to the stand, and bed the anvil feet in sand. A few inches of sand around the feet of the anvil will help absorb a fair amount of ring.
A set of angled mounts that will be detailed in a later article also helps by adding the mass of the base to the mass of the anvil, and helps to deaden the ring at the same time.
Definitely, in addition to wearing some kind of eye protection like shooting glasses, hearing protection is a must. Either shooting muffs (aka “cans”) or ear plugs. We prefer cans, as they are easy to take off and put on if someone stops by.
Anvils are often hard to come by for the hobbyist smith, and several options will be covered here with more in a much longer future article. The anvil is a collection of specialized shapes and tools to aid in the work most smiths will be performing. The conical horn for making rings and scrolls, as well as drawing points. Rounded and square shoulders are used to neck down stock, such as the tang on a wood chisel or knife blade. The hardie hole on the face of the anvil holds tools, and so on. The full use of all the sections and the subtlety of each will be fully covered in a later post. But the main use for an anvil is something to strike heated metal on top of, and a number of substitutes can be found or made to fill in in this role.
A solid block or plate of steel, 1” thick or more will work decently, as will a section of rail track or an I beam. Even a large, solid rock can be use (and has). In a pinch, for a field repair I have had to use such things as trailer balls, large hammers and a massive slab of granite sticking out of the ground as improvised anvils.
For purchasing, a good deal on a used anvil is usually about a dollar a pound (or 2 quid a kilo for our UK readers... some translation will be required for other areas). Any higher a price, look it over well and strike it listening for any odd buzzing sounds that would indicate internal cracks. Any lower price is probably worth grabbing.
Used anvils are often seriously overpriced, so buyer beware.
New, good quality anvils are not cheap. 4 to 6 dollars a pound are not uncommon. Unless you get one of the cheap chinese imports... The less expensive anvil usually goes for about $50-60 US, and is cast iron. Many of these have been found to have serious casting flaws, and many have auto body filler to make them pretty hidden under their paint. The more expensive cast steel anvil typically runs under $100 US, and is a workable anvil, if a bit light. These 55lb anvils are easy to transport however, and make a great starter anvil for someone who has to move their gear in and out of storage to work.
Older anvils are marked in hundred weights (abbreviated Cwt). Usually, you will find 3 numbers on the waist of an anvil, something like 115. The first number is hundred weights, each of which is 112 lbs. The second number is quarters of hundredth weights, and the last number is the remainder in pounds. So in our example, the hypothetical anvil would weigh 112+28+5= 145lbs total.
Often you can not easily see the markings on an older anvil will be obscured with paint or dirt. Try spraying water on the side and let it dry. Often, the stamped numbers will dry last, so the weight and make can be made out for a few minutes.
That about covers the little bits on anvils covered in chat recently, a more complete article is in the works for a later post. Including how to make micro anvils... just cause they are fun.
Other topics included aprons; some kind of leather apron is a helpful safety item, and will help to keep pants and shits from becoming as soiled and ripped (plus possibly burned). Oil tanned leathers work best, and cost less than vegetable tanned “tooling” leathers. Chrome tanned styles also work, and a weight of 5oz per square foot or heavier are suggested. A farriers (horse shoer's) apron is readily available, but is not required. A simple carpenters style apron is more than adequata, and a simple loop or thong of leather to tie it closed is quite functional. Aprons will be another thing covered in a later article, so stay tuned for that.
For improvised tongs; large channel locks or vice grips can be used, along with a good sized set of pliers. These are not nearly as specialized or as useful as a few good sets of tongs, but may work in a pinch or as starting tools. Generally I suggest against wearing gloves because it deadens vibration coming from the tongs. While at first this seems like a good thing, it actually prevents a lot of feedback from your work. A piece of hot stock slipping slowly free of your “tongs” will feel quite different than a solidly held piece. This warning I missed some years back, which lead to some wonderful excitement and several weeks of healing. You can wear gloves, and many professional smiths do.. the choice is yours, but try both versions and see which works best for you. It is worth noting that the longer, springier reins of a pair of tongs will transfer much less shock to your hands and arms than something like vice-grips.
I know there were dozens of other topics... but those will have to wait for another post.
Stay warm!
12 January 2012
A novel?!?
After completing NaNoWriMo this past November, we will soon have our first fiction novel ready for purchase. The Nexus Codex is a story of a down on his luck detective trying to sort out what happened to his only paying client, and getting entangled in a web of strange circumstances.
While there is no blacksmith related material in this book, it is still a fun read. Perhaps we will post a few chapters here for you to get a preview down the road a bit.
Stay tuned... much is in the works and coming soon.
Stay warm, keep the forges lit.
While there is no blacksmith related material in this book, it is still a fun read. Perhaps we will post a few chapters here for you to get a preview down the road a bit.
Stay tuned... much is in the works and coming soon.
Stay warm, keep the forges lit.
29 October 2011
Preview - Lesson - Backpacker's bellows
This is one of the upcoming articles being worked on currently:
This article will be on building a small set of "backpacker's bellows" for use with a ground or bucket forge in the wilds, or souping up your bbq grill or fireplace. These little single chamber, dual valved bellows can also be scaled up for other uses including general blacksmithing (though a dual chamber bellows system is much more efficient).
This article will be on building a small set of "backpacker's bellows" for use with a ground or bucket forge in the wilds, or souping up your bbq grill or fireplace. These little single chamber, dual valved bellows can also be scaled up for other uses including general blacksmithing (though a dual chamber bellows system is much more efficient).
Blacksmith Lessons - The Ground Forge
The Ground Forge
In previous articles, I have mentioned the ground forge, and I figured I should cover it in more detail. The original mention is here: http://ironangelforge.blogspot.com/2009/08/blacksmith-basics-forge.html.
The ground forge is really the beginning of blacksmithing as we know it, and is a hold over from the bronze age that preceded it. In many areas of the world, in the deep mists of the past, bronze and iron workers worked side by side, adapting techniques of the older metal into forming the new iron. That transitional stage is a whole other series of posts that we will cover at a later time.
As mentioned in the first post, some parts of the world continue to use ground forges to this day, though most areas developed taller “table” style forges. For the modern backyard blacksmith, historical re-enactment smith or the like, the later table forges are usually a better choice. But when you need a forge and are away from your shop, or are camping and need to make a quick tool, the ground forge is certainly a usable and very simple solution. For those who are interested in bush craft and being able to pack in to the wild very lightly, the knowledge of how to build a ground forge is an invaluable tool.
All you really need is an air source (covered below), a method of getting that air to the underside of the fire, and ground soft enough to dig a hole in. You can use any handy tool to make your hole, but its best to not use your hands, just in case there is a sharp stone or root in the area you are digging. If you find a root, move your hole. If there is a large root in the ground, it could catch fire and that could lead to an issue you don't want. You will also need forge fuel and tools, along with some stock to work.
Once you have found a suitable location that seems reasonably rock free, clear any ground debris such as leaves and sticks back a few feet and make sure there is nothing flammable over head for at least 15 or more feet.
Dig a narrow trench long enough for your air tube and a round hole about 6-8” in diameter. The trench should be a few inches deeper than your forge hole and angle upward out of the hole. The forge hole should be round bottomed, so it will be between 3 and 5 inches deep, with the dirt removed piled up around the outside at a low angle. Lay your air tube in the trench and cover it, at least at the end nearest the fire pit. The dirt covering is there to protect it from heat and keep it from moving. Pack the dirt tightly. Put in fuel, assemble your air system and light it up. You are done!
In case you don't have a set of backpackers bellows (described in an upcoming article) or another portable air source, there are a number of ways you can get air into your forge in a number of ways. The simplest is to blow into the end of the pipe. This will likely make you light headed before you reach a decent heat. You can also make a funnel shape and fan it with something handy to focus more air into the inlet, and this will work pretty well in a pinch. If there is a decent wind, building your ground forge aiming into the wind with a large funnel to catch and focus it may allow you to work in relative ease, the problem is you can not control the amount of heat. This may or may not work at all, depending on wind and location.
If you don't have a portable inlet pipe, you can build one by simply finding something to cover your inlet trench, then sealing it up with dirt. The more fireproof, the better. Bark will work, but it will eventually burn at the forge bowl and the inlet will cave in. Stones may work, but be ware of this; many stones have some water in them, and under heat may split or break, possibly with some force (another reason to make sure you remove them all from your bowl). If you can scrounge up a bit of metal in the field, such as a steel can stomped flat, it will work better than bark or stones. Just be sure to recycle or throw the can away when you are done. And when done, make sure to fill in the hole and trench as well to prevent breaking your ankle in the middle of the night in camp.
If you are in a clay area, you can “glaze” the inside of the bowl with a bit of water to smooth it and help it keep it's shape. If you are using wood or charcoal, the ash will help to harden the bowl somewhat, so if you use the ground forge for a long while it will get nearly concrete like in a clay bed.
In a ground forge, you will find there will be problems with clinker and slag build up at the air inlet, so you may have to tear down and clean your fire more often than in a cast iron pot table forge.
Now that you know how to build a ground forge, you can adapt this technology to make your own charcoal as well. Simply dig a much bigger ground forge, start the fire at the base near the inlet hole, and bury the top with the removed dirt leaving a small hole at the top for smoke to escape through. You don't want an open, flaming fire, just a slow smoldering one. Make sure if you are going to burn charcoal that you have a lot of time open; it will take a while. You can burn dry wood to make charcoal, but wet wood can also be used if you have nothing else at hand. It may not burn as easily or as well, and may even go out, so keep an eye on the smoke coming out the top. You may have to dig it out and relight it a few times with some dry kindling. We may put up a more extensive article on forging with charcoal in the future, and if we do it will have a much more extensive article on making your own charcoal with it.
In an extreme pinch, you can forge with just a wood fire. It will not be as hot as a coal or charcoal fire, and will pop and spit a lot more, so watch out for flying sparks. In a ground forge intended for use with only wood, you may have to dig your pit larger. The easiest way to do this is to dig a long trench with the air inlet coming in at a 90 degree angle. Lay your sections of wood in the trench and push them forward into the fire area as it burns away. You may have to wet it from time to time to keep the fire from spreading up into your fuel reserve. Be careful not to get your main fire area wet, and watch out for bursts of steam from the fire and from the inlet when you water it. Hot steam can blast out several feet, so be careful.
That about covers the ground forge for now. Keep on hammering.
In previous articles, I have mentioned the ground forge, and I figured I should cover it in more detail. The original mention is here: http://ironangelforge.blogspot.com/2009/08/blacksmith-basics-forge.html.
The ground forge is really the beginning of blacksmithing as we know it, and is a hold over from the bronze age that preceded it. In many areas of the world, in the deep mists of the past, bronze and iron workers worked side by side, adapting techniques of the older metal into forming the new iron. That transitional stage is a whole other series of posts that we will cover at a later time.
As mentioned in the first post, some parts of the world continue to use ground forges to this day, though most areas developed taller “table” style forges. For the modern backyard blacksmith, historical re-enactment smith or the like, the later table forges are usually a better choice. But when you need a forge and are away from your shop, or are camping and need to make a quick tool, the ground forge is certainly a usable and very simple solution. For those who are interested in bush craft and being able to pack in to the wild very lightly, the knowledge of how to build a ground forge is an invaluable tool.
All you really need is an air source (covered below), a method of getting that air to the underside of the fire, and ground soft enough to dig a hole in. You can use any handy tool to make your hole, but its best to not use your hands, just in case there is a sharp stone or root in the area you are digging. If you find a root, move your hole. If there is a large root in the ground, it could catch fire and that could lead to an issue you don't want. You will also need forge fuel and tools, along with some stock to work.
Once you have found a suitable location that seems reasonably rock free, clear any ground debris such as leaves and sticks back a few feet and make sure there is nothing flammable over head for at least 15 or more feet.
Dig a narrow trench long enough for your air tube and a round hole about 6-8” in diameter. The trench should be a few inches deeper than your forge hole and angle upward out of the hole. The forge hole should be round bottomed, so it will be between 3 and 5 inches deep, with the dirt removed piled up around the outside at a low angle. Lay your air tube in the trench and cover it, at least at the end nearest the fire pit. The dirt covering is there to protect it from heat and keep it from moving. Pack the dirt tightly. Put in fuel, assemble your air system and light it up. You are done!
In case you don't have a set of backpackers bellows (described in an upcoming article) or another portable air source, there are a number of ways you can get air into your forge in a number of ways. The simplest is to blow into the end of the pipe. This will likely make you light headed before you reach a decent heat. You can also make a funnel shape and fan it with something handy to focus more air into the inlet, and this will work pretty well in a pinch. If there is a decent wind, building your ground forge aiming into the wind with a large funnel to catch and focus it may allow you to work in relative ease, the problem is you can not control the amount of heat. This may or may not work at all, depending on wind and location.
If you don't have a portable inlet pipe, you can build one by simply finding something to cover your inlet trench, then sealing it up with dirt. The more fireproof, the better. Bark will work, but it will eventually burn at the forge bowl and the inlet will cave in. Stones may work, but be ware of this; many stones have some water in them, and under heat may split or break, possibly with some force (another reason to make sure you remove them all from your bowl). If you can scrounge up a bit of metal in the field, such as a steel can stomped flat, it will work better than bark or stones. Just be sure to recycle or throw the can away when you are done. And when done, make sure to fill in the hole and trench as well to prevent breaking your ankle in the middle of the night in camp.
If you are in a clay area, you can “glaze” the inside of the bowl with a bit of water to smooth it and help it keep it's shape. If you are using wood or charcoal, the ash will help to harden the bowl somewhat, so if you use the ground forge for a long while it will get nearly concrete like in a clay bed.
In a ground forge, you will find there will be problems with clinker and slag build up at the air inlet, so you may have to tear down and clean your fire more often than in a cast iron pot table forge.
Now that you know how to build a ground forge, you can adapt this technology to make your own charcoal as well. Simply dig a much bigger ground forge, start the fire at the base near the inlet hole, and bury the top with the removed dirt leaving a small hole at the top for smoke to escape through. You don't want an open, flaming fire, just a slow smoldering one. Make sure if you are going to burn charcoal that you have a lot of time open; it will take a while. You can burn dry wood to make charcoal, but wet wood can also be used if you have nothing else at hand. It may not burn as easily or as well, and may even go out, so keep an eye on the smoke coming out the top. You may have to dig it out and relight it a few times with some dry kindling. We may put up a more extensive article on forging with charcoal in the future, and if we do it will have a much more extensive article on making your own charcoal with it.
In an extreme pinch, you can forge with just a wood fire. It will not be as hot as a coal or charcoal fire, and will pop and spit a lot more, so watch out for flying sparks. In a ground forge intended for use with only wood, you may have to dig your pit larger. The easiest way to do this is to dig a long trench with the air inlet coming in at a 90 degree angle. Lay your sections of wood in the trench and push them forward into the fire area as it burns away. You may have to wet it from time to time to keep the fire from spreading up into your fuel reserve. Be careful not to get your main fire area wet, and watch out for bursts of steam from the fire and from the inlet when you water it. Hot steam can blast out several feet, so be careful.
That about covers the ground forge for now. Keep on hammering.
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